the beachfront chayakada. eleven thousand people have stopped for a glass here, steps from the sand.

an underrated gem tucked near the showrooms. budget biriyani that punches far above its price.

one of calicut's oldest hotels, the den of artists in malabar. writers and film people have passed through for decades. eat the kerala meals.

outdoor tables, hyderabadi biriyani, and chicken mandi worth the drive.

dum biriyani since 1949, and the evening snacks locals have eaten for three generations.

kozhikoden halwa sangamam, where the classics share the counter with kunafa and omani black.

seventy kinds of sulaimani. the south beach branch, at dusk, is the one to sit at.

the avil milk institution. roasted rice flakes, milk, and a city's worth of nostalgia in a glass.

pot biriyani and tikka biriyani for when you want the fancier end of the spectrum.

six decades of halwa since 1963. the dates and tender-coconut are the ones to carry home.

you smell the beef biriyani before you see it. a calicut institution since 1961.

open all hours, and the coffee is actually made with care. the meeting-room favourite.

kalyana biriyani with a home-made touch, and they keep refilling the rice.

a cosy breakfast room. the french toast and the cakes are the reason to come early.

beach road brunch done well. burgers, loaded fries, wings with a real kick.

south beach, sea in front, filter coffee in hand. the sunset seat in the city.

waterfront sandwiches and a fiery shawarma. the view is a free side.

a proper coupon-style meals joint. take the fish fry, always take the fish fry.

slow-sealed dum biriyani, kaima rice, meat that slides off the bone. the beef is the one.

the nostalgic kozhikode sarbath, by the beach. a local ritual in a chilled glass.

the one every list starts with, and rightly so. malabar fish curry that ruins you for everywhere else. go hungry, go early.

forty-five teas and something to go with each. a tea-lover's floor.

nearly always packed, usually sold out by evening. the ambur chicken biriyani is the reason.

fish curry and porotta the old way, since 1978. the ayila mulakittathu is the move.

the oldest name on sweetmeat street, nearly a century in. forty kinds of halwa, and the black one is why you came.

european-style room, continental plates, a calm place to sit a while.

a reliable calicut classic. malabar biriyani and a beef roast that does not miss.

quietly one of the most trusted kitchens in town. meals and biriyani, done right, every time.

home-style malabari cooking. the mango meen curry tastes like someone's grandmother made it, because once, someone's did.